Some fragmented thoughts on Calcutta.
1. I first went to Calcutta at the beginning of what turned out to be a brief and unnecessary
affaire de coeur. During that year, I went to the city often and then more sporadically. I have a friend who never revisits the city where a failed romance had blossomed, at least in the immediate aftermath of a break-up. Because what I felt for Calcutta was a separate thing in itself, it was not a sentiment I felt hence my trips to the city since then have been intermittent only by virtue of distance.
2. A little bit of history. My parents briefly lived near Calcutta, at the height of the Naxalite period. My father was in the Indian Army, given the political climate he had armed escort. It was not without reason; a civilian friend of his was gunned down not minutes from his home. This and the dislike some Bombayites feel for a city that is so different in temperament meant my mother never took to the city. My father, brought up in the East, was more at ease with it though he never lived there for a long period of time. Years later I went to the little town they lived in. It was a dusty, nondescript town with nothing to recommend it.
3. In the 80s, it appeared that everyone was either filming or writing about Calcutta. Perhaps it was a time when we were a little closer to the Raj with which the city was then inextricably linked. Perhaps we were also more preoccupied with the peculiar mix of literary culture and extreme poverty that Calcutta provided.
Ray was still alive,
Ghatak not that long gone, Joffe's
City of Joy was in the offing and numerous coffee table books and travelogues were published on the city. These days, it seems to have fallen off the radar a bit. Bombay, Bangalore and Delhi seem more representative of a new India that mixes the sentiment of home and the world with ease. It is a decade in which Mumbai has gone to the Oscars and Delhi is the basis for so many new films. Once marginal cities like Bangalore are now pretty much shorthand for the new India. It is not that Kolkata is forgotten. Occasionally it is the setting for an India themed film (
After the Wedding,
Shadows of Time,
Born into Brothels), it pops up on TV screens here when Steve Waugh visits but by and large it is a less visible part of the new India.
4. I last went to Kolkata six months ago. Arriving in Calcutta, you are already elsewhere. It shares the languorous feel of the cities to its east like Bangkok and that feeling is only enhanced by the fact that it is in a different time zone but is artificially aligned to the rest of the country.
5. In the late evening, the centre of the city was clogged and full of smog. Traffic and people seemed to be in eternal circulation creating a peculiarly persistent noise. Park Street had a kind of darkness marginally dissipated by yellow light that was so common in most Indian cities a few decades back. In contrast, everything in Mumbai was neon lit and the autos had long switched to CNG. Bombay was thrusting itself into the future, Calcutta as ever seemed mired in the past, though Calcuttans themselves thought the city was changing. As always, the city’s dim lights and its slowness were alternately charming and exasperating.
6. People in Calcutta are eccentric in a way you don’t see elsewhere. Tram drivers with aloof expressions trundle through the city. A friend went to buy a kurta and received a dressing down for not choosing one immediately. I once went to a public library - itself a grand building set on an unkempt lawn. My queries were rewarded with gloomy stares and a certain air of cultivated, slow (that word again) indifference only seen in Calcutta. Then suddenly someone saw it fit to take an interest in me, a sudden disconcerting smile cracked his face and I was ushered into a room with mouldering documents. Similarly off Park Street is a place where they sell fine embroidered linen which is run by a charity and appears to keep a few women in employment. After very many occasions of the surly service that only Calcutta stores seem to possess, an unexpected voluble amiability.
7. The taxis in Calcutta always carry the driver's cronies, perhaps to relieve the tedium of the ride. One visit I took just such a cab late at night and we went through a newly built freeway of sorts. It was ill-lit and lonely, I bawled out the guy. He stopped and turned and said This is Calcutta, We are Gentlemen and true to his word deposited me at my address.
8. At Flury's on my first visit, a gentleman in a kurta and a jhola and a woman in a pale, starched sari-both middle aged and in the throes of an illicit romance.
9. Lastly, yet again past the road to the airport, dust blowing by the side, unexpected patches of green and water, the dark faces of the East, a friendly driver, sweet shops, saris hoisted on shop fronts and then home to Bombay.